The so-called Stacked Caesar ($12) features both romaine and kale, along with just the right amount of creamy Parmesan dressing. We ordered it as a side dish with our steaks. The whole head is brought to the table on a bed of cauliflower puree with lemon, parsley, capers, a bit of Parmesan and olive oil. I’m quite a fan of cauliflower in all its guises, but roasting gives it a bit of caramel sweetness. Brasel created this dramatic dish especially for Palm Beach. The biggest surprise among the appetizers, however, was whole roasted cauliflower ($19). So often, they taste more of bread crumbs. Crab and lobster cakes ($19) indeed taste like crab and lobster. Why aren’t lamb ribs on more restaurant menus? The meaty Asian barbecue bones ($19) here are lightly sauced with hoisin and served with papaya slaw. The ceviche special ($15) one night was made up of shrimp, salmon, compressed watermelon, cilantro, chili, red pepper and an interesting sesame-balsamic reduction. The menu opens with exceptional modern raw-bar offerings such as octopus carpaccio ($19): transparently thin slices with baby radish, heirloom beans, pickled mustard seed and tiny potato chips.
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